Ireland by Road and Bike: A Sisters’ Journey Through the Emerald Isle

Ireland has a way of capturing your heart the moment you arrive — winding mountain roads, friendly locals, lively music, and a landscape that changes with every turn. My sister and I decided to experience it all — part by car, part by bike — exploring Ireland’s history, coastlines, and culture one slow, scenic mile at a time.

Day 1 — Dublin to Kilkenny: Monastic Valleys and Mountain Views

Our journey began south of Dublin as we wound through the Wicklow Mountains, often called the “Garden of Ireland.” The drive was stunning — pine forests giving way to open bogland dotted with free-roaming sheep. A highlight of the day was Glendalough (pictured below), an early medieval monastic site surrounded by lush forest and calm lakes. The air smelled rich and mossy as we wandered among the ruins. For coffee lovers, Poppies Café in Enniskerry is a must-stop — I enjoyed my first latte of the trip under soft September sunshine.

We ended the evening in Kilkenny, a medieval gem full of charm and character. Over bowls of Irish stew and live traditional music, we felt completely at home. Later, a ghost tour led us through narrow alleys — and just as the guide whispered about spirits, a firework went off nearby. Only in Ireland!

Highlights:
● Scenic drive through the Wicklow Mountains
● Glendalough Monastic Site
● Coffee at Poppies Café
● Irish stew and trad music in Kilkenny
● Evening ghost tour

Day 2 — Kilkenny to Kenmare: Castles, Peat Fires, and Country Roads

The next morning started with Kilkenny Castle (pictured below), its grand halls and manicured gardens a window into medieval life. Continuing southwest, we stopped at the Rock of Cashel and nearby Hore Abbey, a hauntingly beautiful ruin surrounded by sheep and cattle.

As we passed through small villages, the scent of peat fires drifted through the crisp autumn air. At lunch, we discovered Ireland’s beloved garlic dipping sauce served with chicken goujons — a new favorite. We ended the day in Kenmare, a cozy town of colorful buildings, wool shops, and warm welcomes — the perfect place to prepare for our cycling adventure ahead.

Highlights:
● Touring Kilkenny Castle and Hore Abbey
● Rock of Cashel viewpoint
● The scent of peat fires across rural Ireland
● Arrival in Kenmare

Day 3 — Kenmare to Tralee via the Ring of Kerry: Wool, Wind, and Warm Cinnamon - Bike around Tralee

After cinnamon rolls and coffee in Kenmare, we set off along the Ring of Kerry, one of Ireland’s most iconic routes. Every turn revealed a new scene — rugged cliffs, mirror-like lakes, and endless green valleys. We visited Muckross House, a grand Victorian estate, and the nearby Muckross Abbey, home to Ireland’s oldest yew tree, said to “bleed” red sap.

Back in Kenmare, we browsed the local wool shops, full of hand-knit sweaters and blankets. The shopkeepers chatted cheerfully about town news while we admired their craftsmanship. It was a breezy, beautiful day that captured the rhythm of rural Ireland perfectly.

Highlights:
● Touring Muckross House and Abbey
● Driving the Ring of Kerry
● Shopping local wool goods in Kenmare
● Arrival in Tralee

Day 4 — Tralee to Dingle (by Bike): Climbing Conor Pass

Our first day began with the legendary Conor Pass, one of Ireland’s highest and most scenic mountain passes. The road narrows to one lane, allowing only small cars, walkers, and cyclists — which made it feel wonderfully peaceful. Each turn seemed to promise the summit, but another curve always appeared. The climb was long, but the reward was spectacular: views of the Atlantic Ocean, jagged peaks, and bright green fields rolling all the way to the sea.

By the time we reached Dingle, the smell of grilled food led us straight into town. We stopped at Kool Scoops, a local ice cream shop, where Jon, the owner, handed us fresh waffle cones — pure bliss after 40 miles of cycling.

That evening, we joined the locals for craic — Ireland’s famous blend of live traditional music, laughter, and good conversation. The fiddles and flutes filled the pub, reminding us of our Appalachian roots and how folk music connects people across oceans.

Highlights:
● Cycling Conor Pass
● Panoramic ocean and mountain views
● Ice cream at Kool Scoops in Dingle
● Evening craic and trad music

Day 5 — Dingle Peninsula and Slea Head Drive (by Bike): Where Land Meets Sea

Few places in Ireland are as breathtaking as the Slea Head Drive, where the road hugs the cliffs and the ocean stretches endlessly below. It feels as if you’re riding between two worlds — mountains at your back, sea in front.

We visited the ancient Beehive Huts, dry-stone dwellings dating back to the 5th and 6th centuries. The caretakers were wonderfully friendly, even giving us a small discount for arriving by bike.

Midway through the route, a sudden rainstorm rolled in, and we ducked into a tiny café perched on the coast. Watching the waves crash outside as we warmed up with tea was pure serendipity.

Later, descending into a quiet valley, the air shifted — soft, warm, and fragrant with wildflowers. It felt like another world entirely.

Highlights:

● Cycling Slea Head Drive
● Visiting ancient Beehive Huts
● Tea stop during a seaside rainstorm
● Scenic valley views

Day 6 — Dingle to Inch Beach (by Bike): Coastlines, Surfers, and Seaside Charm

Our final cycling day took us from Dingle to Inch Beach, following rolling hills and sweeping views of the Atlantic. The scent of salty sea air grew stronger as we neared the coast, and from the hillside, we could see surfers riding waves below. Inch Beach stretches for miles — wide, golden, and endlessly photogenic.

We stayed overnight at a small hotel overlooking the beach, where the sound of waves filled the evening air. The village has just two restaurants; one was closed for a wedding, so the entire town gathered at the other — a cheerful bar and restaurant right on the water. Locals, travelers, and wedding guests all shared tables, stories, and laughter as the sun set over the sea.

It was the perfect ending to the cycling portion of our adventure.

Highlights:
● Coastal cycling route from Dingle to Inch Beach
● Views of surfers from the hills
● Dinner with locals at the beachfront pub
● Oceanfront hotel stay

Day 7 — Inch Beach to Doolin: Castles, Coastlines, and a Cozy Retreat

After several days on the bike, we packed up and drove north toward Doolin, taking the scenic route along Ireland’s wild west coast. We made a few unforgettable stops along the way — first at Bunratty Castle (pictured below), one of Ireland’s best-preserved medieval fortresses. Its towering stone walls and recreated village gave us a vivid glimpse into life centuries ago.

From there, we continued through Lahinch, a lively surf town with stunning ocean views and plenty of charm. The drive along this route was breathtaking — winding through coastal cliffs, colorful villages, and stretches of open countryside dotted with stone cottages and grazing sheep.

By late afternoon, we arrived in Doolin, a small seaside village known for its music and friendly locals. We checked into a cozy cabin with a private hot tub and sauna — the perfect recovery stop for our tired legs. As the evening settled in, we wandered through the village, chatted with locals, and soaked in the calm rhythm of coastal life. It was peaceful, restorative, and the perfect finale to our adventure.

Highlights:
● Scenic coastal drive through Lahinch
● Tour of Bunratty Castle and Folk Park
● Arrival in Doolin
● Hot tub and sauna cabin stay
● Relaxed evening in a quiet seaside village

Day 8 — Cliffs of Moher and Return to Dublin

Our final day began with a visit to the breathtaking Cliffs of Moher, one of Ireland’s most iconic natural landmarks. The walk along the cliff path offered sweeping ocean views and briny air, with seabirds soaring far below.

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a local pub in Doolin, savoring fresh seafood and our last taste of Irish hospitality.

The next morning, we rose early for the drive back to Dublin, tired but content — our hearts full, our legs a little sore, and our spirits high.

Highlights:
● Walking the Cliffs of Moher
● Lunch at a local pub in Doolin
● Scenic drive back to Dublin