Along the Danube Cycling Tour: ‘Oooh’ and ‘Aaah’ Moments Around Every Bend

Lora Lee and I love traveling with Tripsite! We have planned four trips and completed three incredible adventures with them, with one unfortunately canceled during Covid. They are so personable from the moment of inquiry down to the final days before we leave. Their team is so warm and personable and ensures a flawless trip awaits us.

We plan for our trips to depart during the first week of July, to escape the desert summer heat in Palm Springs, CA. Typically, our musts are either the cooler weather cycling through the Netherlands or island hopping the Dalmatian Islands of Croatia, where daily cycling adventures conclude with a swim in the serene turquoise waters. Our most recent trip was along the Danube, the majority of the time following the renowned cycling path of the Euro Velo 6 which leaves Germany and passes through Austria, Slovakia, and Hungary.

We arrived the day before departure, in the picturesque town of Passau, a small port town where three rivers converge into the Danube. We walked the city easily, exploring the quaint shops and enjoying the rustic flavors of Germany.

My eyes grew wide when the server brought my crispy pork knuckle dish, whilst there were looks of curiosity from the many diners seated around us. One even came over to our table and politely asked if they could take a photo!

Day 1: Settling In

The boat for our trip was the Primadonna, spacious to accommodate all 150 passengers and not once feeling crowded. Let’s talk about food…wait… let the pictures whet your appetite and say it all...

Breakfasts were diverse so as not to grow boring during the 7 days on board, and while at breakfast, we were provided “to go” containers for packing our lunches to enjoy while on the bike route. This would often include meats, cheeses, breads, fruits, frittata, and salads.

The rooftop patio was a perfect spot to breathe in the cool night air as we drifted past small towns, landscapes of various shades of green, and the sky blanketed with stars to gaze upon. On hotter afternoons, it was just as ideal soaking in the hot tub with a popsicle or, when perhaps a tad too breezy, the indoor lounge offered views via their open expanse of windows.

Once dinner concluded, everyone met in the grand sitting area and would hear the narrative of the following day's ride. This cruise surprisingly consisted of 90% locals from Germany, many only traveling a mere 4+ hours to Passau, and most bringing their bikes. There were only 4 English-speaking guests – 2 were from Denmark, and then the two of us. Our orientation was informal with just 4 of us, and I must say kudos to the crew (Milos) for being so communicative and welcoming, as was our server, Dungen. Their English was great.

After a map was shown on the projection screen of our cycling route and a few suggested highlights to see along the way, we were ready to ride. The best advice regarding directions was that the Danube will either be on your right side or left – ha ha…keep that in mind, and look for the markers showing the Euro Velo symbol and all will be fine! Even with a wrong turn here and there we did manage to get back on route. Well, that and downloading maps offline too.

Day 2: Schlögen - Linz, 35 mi. (56 km)

The ride on this day had the mountains cresting over the Danube. Trees lined the route as we passed under branches that formed an arch overhead.

The roads were smooth and in exceptional condition. Approaching Linz, we would pedal into the city. We would discover that even with larger cities, the bike lanes are well represented and we felt completely at ease. The stoplights show not to walk or bike, then the red lane was designated for bike riders, making urban riding user friendly.

Day 3: Tulln - Vienna, 19 or 32 mi. (31 or 52 km)

Today was lovely. Distant cathedrals dotted the landscape, and we even spotted a horse being walked along the trail. After yesterday's long trek, we learned to embrace the frequent rest stops—perfect for pausing to enjoy a beer, coffee, or dessert.

Arriving in Vienna, the route took on an urban feel – the hum of the roads, underpasses abuzz with cars, and we were surprised at the beautiful 'street graffiti artwork'.

To many, this may have been unsettling, though as we continued to ride, we became immersed amongst joggers, families walking, the occasional basketball court or playground, and yes, many waterside cafes, restaurants, and numerous places to enjoy an icy cold pint as well.

Milos, who provided our orientations on the boat each night, showed us the map of the Ringstrasse in Vienna and the loop that made the majority of key sites easy to catch within the circle. He also suggested a welcoming park to enjoy lunch in.

The bike lanes are well marked and made it comfortable meandering around the bustling city – though be mindful that you are in a city filled with locals and tourists alike, so looking twice at intersections is highly recommended.

Day 4: Komárno - Estzgergom/Štúrovo, 35 mi. (56 km)

Day 5: Budapest/Biking to Margarete’s Island, 14 mi. (22 km)

Arriving in Budapest at night is a truly magical experience. As you witness the splendid glow and pass beneath its illuminated bridges you can feel an overwhelming sense of history coming alive. A bucket list moment! We went to the Szechenyi Baths, as seen on the TV show The Amazing Race – a pleasant way to soak our muscles after 4 days of pedaling.

The Danube water levels were reported low and were cause for us to cut our stay in Budapest short. While we planned for the day, we only had a half – enough to get an appreciation and to want to return again.

Day 6: Sightseeing in Bratislava & Cycling Meulsteen Culture Island, 25 mi. (40 km)

Change in plans. With low water levels, the cruise had to get towards Vienna, where the water levels were more suited to our boat. We had an option of a bus into Brastilava or to cycle into Vienna. We chose Vienna, as our initial visit only offered us a snapshot. This would provide us with additional time to visit the Belvedere Palace and to see Gustav Klimt's famous painting 'The Kiss', along with many other artworks.

Day 7: Cycling Tour Krems to Marbach, 33 mi. (53 km)

Everyone gathered to enjoy a celebratory glass of champagne as the biking trip concluded.

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Stuart Fabel works in the hospitality industry. Lora Lee and him are passionate travelers exploring the sites, flavors, and cultures around the world. He enjoys cycling, surfing, and can often be found painting a canvas inspired from the photos taken from his travels while his 2 dogs sit at his feet.